With my bare skin exposed to the sky, I watch the steam rise and hit the cold morning air. My gaze drifts to the giant tree ferns growing on the nearby riverbank, a brilliant green against the white cliff backdrop. This is the view from my outdoor tub at Watercliff, an eco-retreat near Tauranga, New Zealand. While the experience is exceptional, it’s not an exception to the rule – sudsing up in the open air has become par for the course in New Zealand, where hundreds of accommodation providers offer a similar experience. There are even booking platforms dedicated to the trend, including Canopy Camping, a collection of over 80 cabins and luxury glamping sites, most featuring an outdoor tub.
The country’s love for outdoor bathing dates to the late 19th century, when British tourists first made the long journey south, lured in part by the restorative powers of its geothermal hot springs. Public hot pools haven’t faded in popularity since – with new complexes, such as the NZ$15 million (roughly $12 million) Ōpuke Thermal Pools outside Christchurch, being a testament to their staying power – but there’s something special about soaking in solace under the stars.
A huge part of New Zealand’s draw is its spectacular and diverse scenery, made more famous by being used as the setting for Sir Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings. This might explain the country’s penchant for outdoor bathtubs. There’s something magical about the four walls of the bathroom dropping away and being, quite literally, immersed in Middle Earth.
Opportunities to bathe au naturel haven’t just been limited to stays where I’m splashing out. For example, at Plateau Lodge, a motel on the edge of Tongariro National Park, king studios with recently installed outdoor soakers start at just NZ$160 ($130). I’ve bathed on a high-country sheep station amongst the tussocks, lathered up in an olive grove, and soaked next to a seaside safari tent. Sure, my toes might be starting to get pruney, but I’ve never been so clean – or so relaxed.
