As we sailed along the milky green Rhône from Arles to Lyon on the AmaKristina, I found myself greeting the famous vineyards that lace their way down the river’s slopes like old friends: “Salut Hermitage!” “Bisous Châteauneuf du Pape!” “Comment ça-va Monsieurs Chapoutier et Guigal?” Yet somehow, despite an abundance of choice on the AmaWaterways daily tours, the only vineyard excursion I managed to join was the final one to Beaujolais – a wine I find a bit one-dimensional and am snobby about. However, needs must, and I was not going to leave the region without at least one degustation.
The AmaKristina sails up the Rhone past Avignon’s famous bridge. Photo: Courtesy AMAwaterways
After a half-hour drive through the fog-shrouded hills northwest of Lyon, we emerged onto a ridge bathed in sunshine and pulled into the Domaine de Fond-Vieille vineyard. As we strolled among the vines, their leaves turning autumnal reds and russets, owner Dominique Guillard showed us the vine his great-grandfather planted when he returned from the First World War. He explained his deep connection to the land – his family has grown grapes here since 1758 – as the sound of church bells echoed across the valley from the medieval village of Oingt on the opposite hilltop. I found myself drinking in not the wine, but the serenity and natural beauty surrounding us. Next, Guillard took us to the vineyard’s tasting room, where, at a long simple table surrounded by huge vats of fermenting grapes, we sipped on red Beaujolais while nibbling local saucisson and baguette. In situ, the wine acquired depth, nuance and meaning. I also discovered something new – a white Beaujolais made from chenin blanc grapes. It was so delicious I bought a couple of bottles to remind me of the bucolic place my preconceptions had almost made me miss.
