Gourmet Getaway

Best New Bites in Halifax

Halifax is sleepy no more thanks to its vibrant waterfront, swish new hotels and now, with the opening of Mystic, a food scene that's worth travelling for.
By Amy Rosen|October 17, 2024

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'Mystic', Halifax, Nova Scotia. Photo: Stephen Harrison

Over the past decade, Halifax has changed in a seismic way. There are glassy condos and a thriving cocktail bar and restaurant scene. While the genteel Halifax Public Gardens and Victorian streetscapes remain, thanks to city-changing projects like Queen’s Marque, a mixed-use complex that was once home to the ferry terminal’s parking lot, Halifax is sleepy no more. Queen’s Marque is a joyful gathering spot, where 70 per cent of the project is well-used public spaces and art, with the Muir boutique hotel and a dozen shops and restaurants at its core. 

Halifax

‘Mystic’, Halifax pier. Photo: Stephen Harrison

Perched on a pier jutting into the Halifax Harbour, the just-opened Mystic restaurant offers ingredient-driven tasting menus focused on the Maritime terroir, with an eye towards extravagant naturalistic presentations. No swordfish spine or caribou moss goes unused. A wall of jars filled with tasty experiments like Gala apples in brandy and fermenting dandelion buds greet guests up front.

Halifax

Designed by DesignAgency, Mystic greets guests up front with a wall of jars filled with tasty experiments. Photo: Doublespace

Towards the rear, a 60-foot kinetic sculpture called “Tidal Beacon” reaches up from the rooftop and into the sky, timed to sparkle like a lighthouse with each high and low tide. Both the jars and sculpture speak to what’s in store from chef de cuisine Malcolm Campbell’s (late of Toronto’s Auberge du Pommier) open kitchen.

Halifax

The 60-foot kinetic sculpture, ‘Tidal Beacon’ at ‘Queen’s Marquee’. Photo: Courtesy of Queen’s Marque

During the “snacks” course, stunning plates and bowls (not to mention several different beds of kelp and seaweed) are set upon a wooden tray for each guest: Three bites in all, a wee savoury fermented apple sandwich cookie, a pinky-thin cod chip with dots of black garlic mayo, and an oyster topped with “sea” ice.

Halifax

Stunning plates and bowls are set upon a wooden tray for each guest at ‘Mystic’. Photo: Stephen Harrison

Later, chanterelles with smoked ricotta ravioli tastes like waking up from a forest nap; then there’s tender salt marsh lamb, and bog myrtle petit fours for dessert. Halifax has never seen a restaurant quite like this. https://mysticnovascotia.ca/ 

Here are other new-gen restaurants and bars to try:

Fawn: The all-woman leadership team, including co-owner and chef Natalie Rosen (no relation), have filled the airy room with pinks and rust, and things you want to eat. The lunch and dinner menus are modern American meets the Maritimes. A glass of N.S. Benjamin Bridge Pet Nat Rosé in hand, dunk a Ritz into cheesy crab dip, and slurp back oysters on the half shell. Lemon meringue pie has all the happy frills of a tutu. Okay, fine. We’ll have the chocolate cake too. https://www.fawnresto.com/

Fawn

The drool-worthy lemon meringue pie at ‘Fawn’. Photo: Katie Tower/Fawn

Dear Friend Bar: About a 10-minute drive (or ferry) across the harbour, things are hopping in downtown Dartmouth. It’s why Matt Boyle and Jeffrey Van Horne opened their Parisian-chic bar, to serve neighbours inspired takes on classics – the Diamond Negroni, for instance, benefits from walnut, lime leaves and Bitter Bianco. The wine and beer lists are thoughtful and precise. Little wonder they landed on Canada’s 100 Best list as the country’s seventh-ranked bar in 2024. https://www.dearfriendbar.com/

Peacock Wine Bar: A bright and cozy spot for tucking into executive chef Moira Murray’s fried cod cheeks with mustard pickles, soulful pappardelle with wild mushrooms and truffle cream – and when’s the last time you had a cloud-like slice of chiffon cake? Stay tuned: Chef Murray is competing on the new season of Top Chef Canada. https://www.peacockwinebar.ca/

BKS: Short for “Best Kept Secret”, this is a sort-of speakeasy where Muir guests enter through a private entrance into a sleek little bar with rooftop views over the harbour. Special shoutout to executive bar chef Elise Sergerie (formerly of Montreal’s Bar George) who astounds with her creations, from a zero-waste cocktail to a potent milk punch, at Mystic and five other Queen Marque restaurants.  https://muirhotel.com/taste/bks/

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