You might travel to the other side of the globe to climb Mount Fuji, marvel at Kyoto’s temples, indulge in Jiro’s sushi or … shop for vintage denim? Strange but true: With some 70 per cent of vintage clothing worldwide in its hands, Japan in general – and Tokyo’s world-famous youth fashion hub Harajuku in particular (indelibly name-checked by Gwen Stefani in her 2004 album Love. Angel. Music. Baby.) – is arguably the best place on the planet to source that specific high-end Gucci Jackie bag that you missed (or lost or loved until the seams wore out) the first time around.
But it’s not just heritage European houses like Chanel, Christian Dior and Gucci that make Tokyo the glamorous mecca of secondhand shopping; vintage Americana like Levi’s and Nike are just as cool if not cooler in this flourishing scene with historical roots in post-Second World War American occupation. Hollywood heroes like James Dean and Marlon Brando were slowly ingrained into youth sartorial styles as the Japanese adopted Western clothing. A rockabilly subculture developed and to this day you can still see people dressed like Elvis and Betty Rizzo jitterbugging at Yoyogi Park in Harajuku, every Sunday.
In the ’80s, the Japanese fashion evolution reached its apex, with avant-garde designers like Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto (who are still a major influence in fashion today) creating conceptual garments with an aesthetic that was more like art than clothing. The distinctive look put Tokyo firmly on the fashion map and referenced wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic philosophy that celebrates imperfection, simplicity and authenticity. Individuality and self-expression are still king here. So, whether you’re after wabi-sabi via worn-in jeans or an elusive Hermès Birkin bag to humblebrag about on social media, here are five of Tokyo’s best vintage shops for anything and everything you need.
Head to Takeshita Street in Harajuku for fashion finds. Photo: Chris Willson/Alamy Stock Photo
Vintage Ecoland: Internet-famous in the summertime, thanks to the power-shopping fashionista Kim Kardashian. “OMG best shopping ever in Japan!!” she exclaimed about Vintage Ecoland, where she scored a 1995 Chanel costume necklace – the same one Margot Robbie wore in Barbie – with multi-coloured gemstones and the fashion house’s trademark double-Cs. Located 320 kilometres west of the city in Nagoya, obviously the trek is worth it: Vintage Ecoland’s known for its ample Chanel collection, though it’s not short on Cartier watches or Fendi bags either. 460-0007 Aichi, Nagoya. ecoland2014.com
Amore: Back in Tokyo, blink and you’ll miss a narrow metal staircase tucked beside an organic beauty salon. That’s Amore: Twenty metal steps up, deliberately hidden from tourists, is the “Wardrobe” warehouse location (Amore’s got an all-pink Chanel-only store and a gentleman’s Amore, too) of what’s ironically still the best-known vintage shop in the city. With floor-to-ceiling glass windows and a matching glass table stuffed with Louis Vuittons, this Amore’s all about the purses. Known for online auctions with bids from shoppers in every corner of the world, Amore keeps an updated website of its products – in English – and ships to Canada. 5-chōme-1-15 Jingūmae, Shibuya City. amorevintagejapan.com
A treasure trove of vintage Chanel bags at Amore. Photo: Courtesy of Maura Rodriguez
Flamingo: Unlike Amore, this vintage store has the opposite marketing strategy, with neon signs and a flashy oversized flamingo you might otherwise see in Vegas as its instantly recognizable mascot out front of all three locations. Kitschier than the others, Flamingo boasts racks packed to the brim with oversized sweaters, well-worn baseball caps and Converse sneakers almost all from the 1960s to ’80s, and almost all from America. Unlike some other stores, you can leave your yen at home because Flamingo happily takes credit cards. 2-25-12 Kitazawa, Setagaya.
flamingo-online.jp
Slut: Worth visiting even just for the funny photo op beside the sign, Slut ironically attracts faithful customers drawn to its Americana aesthetic and youth appeal. The staff actually travels to America to hand-pick their stock, which features a ton of dad-style plaid, green army jackets and university T-shirts. Hot tip: Head to the very back, where regular shoppers know they stash the rarer pieces from eras as early as the 1920s. 4-chōme-6-1 Kōenjiminami, Suginami City
‘Slut’ is a mecca for retro Americana. Photo: Courtesy Maura Rodriguez
Vintage Qoo: If it’s designer names you’re after, Vintage Qoo probably has the best selection. Some 2,000 pieces are displayed not unlike priceless art in a gallery, in antique cabinets stocked with Gucci, Celine, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton. Like Slut, the crème de la crème is kept on the second floor for serious shoppers who are after drool-worthy rare handbags and Rolex timepieces. 5-2-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku.